Ancient grains surge in popularity as bakers forgo all-purpose flour

What are ancient grains?

For millennia, grains have been a key ingredient in baking across cultures. All-purpose flour, made from wheat, forms the basis of many breads, pastries and sweets in America and Europe. In the past decade, however, ancient grains like buckwheat, amaranth, teff and Kamut have been significantly reintroduced into baking recipes.

As defined by the Whole Grains Council, ancient grains are those that have not been changed through breeding. While wheat has been consistently bred to create more resistant and productive crops, ancient grains are the same today as they were hundreds of years ago. The result is grains that are packed with flavor, texture and nutrients.

A growing market for ancient grains

Many of these grains have been popular in non-Western cultures. World Grain noted that teff has grown in the mountains in present-day Ethiopia, where it is a key ingredient in the flatbread injera. Sorghum flour is a common ingredient in Indian roti or susu bukkumi cakes in Korea, according to Schär.

Flours from these whole grains are also gaining popularity in American baking. Food Business News reports that the United States ancient grains market will grow from $90.4 million in 2022 to $142.3 million by 2028, a nearly 8% growth every year. Meanwhile, the all-purpose flour industry is only expected to grow by about 3% per year, according to a 2024 Dataintelo study. Even among all-purpose flour, consumers seek healthier organic and non-GMO varieties as they turn toward more nutritious and sustainable options for baking.

How ancient grains weigh up against all-purpose flour

The switch to ancient grains follows some larger trends in food and baking. Among these reasons, a curiosity about innovative flavors, healthier alternatives and eco-friendly choices have been key in boosting ancient grains’ popularity despite the higher cost.

Add flavor and texture with ancient grains

The predictable, neutral taste of all-purpose flour is a large part of what has made it so useful in baking, as it lets other flavors shine. Ancient grains offer more complex flavors and, depending on the way they are milled, a distinct texture that can enhance baked goods.

King Arthur Flour describes amaranth and teff as earthy. Kamut is buttery, and sorghum is slightly sweet. Spelt and buckwheat flour can also bring extra tenderness to baked goods in small amounts or make them drier in large quantities.

These tastes and textures add complexity to breads and desserts. Bakers can create exciting flavor combinations with the right recipe or for simply being adventurous. Professional bakers at Carlisle Bakery explain how ancient grains like rye enable them to make more unique baked goods.

Ancient grains for nutrient-packed baked goods

Consumer awareness is shifting towards more wholesome and nutrient-dense ingredients. Healthy eating app Lifesum reported in their 2024 State of Healthy Eating and Wellness Report that 62% of millennials and Gen Z are willing to sacrifice spending on fashion for healthy food, while 55% would sacrifice tech spending to eat healthier.

Ancient grains deliver when it comes to health. Brown University Health notes that, as whole grains, ancient grains have more protein, fiber, vitamins, minerals and antioxidants than refined all-purpose flours. Substituting ancient grain flours can help manage weight and reduce the risk of heart disease, diabetes and stroke.

Some ancient grains are naturally gluten-free. Buckwheat, amaranth, teff and sorghum contain no gluten, making them excellent gluten-free flours for those with celiac or gluten intolerance. In 2024, Tarrand Fiesel of flour miller and blender DakotaMB described to Snack Food & Wholesale Bakery how bakeries seek gluten-free, ancient grain blends to use in their pastries.

Sustainable farming with whole grains

Ancient grains are more sustainable, requiring less water, fertilizer and pesticides. Grains like millet grow well in harsh conditions, enabling them to thrive as global warming creates more intense climates.

Many ancient grain farmers and millers are also small businesses. Unlike the industry farming and monoculture of wheat production, the wide variety of ancient grains can yield healthier soils and more sustainable growth.

Ways to incorporate more ancient grains into baking

Baking with ancient grains takes a little practice but can yield fantastic results. When it comes to flour for baking, most whole-grain flours are not a 1-to-1 replacement with all-purpose flour. Too much ancient grain flour can make a bake dry, for instance. Ancient grains also have weaker or no gluten, which can negatively impact the structure of bread.

Substitute gradually to avoid these challenges with ancient grains. Replace a portion of the all-purpose flour in your cookies, muffins or pancake recipes. You can continue to increase the ratio in future bakes until you’re satisfied with the balance of taste and texture.

Use flours like teff or buckwheat to boost the richness of chocolatey desserts or sorghum to create airy crepes. Glutinous einkorn can go well in your favorite bread recipes. In exploring new recipes, look to other cultures. Ancient grains may be seeing a resurgence in the U.S. now, but they’ve always been a part of cuisine in other areas. These recipes can give you a starting point for melding flavors.

Experiment with a variety of flours as you start to explore ancient grains. Over a few recipes, you’ll see which ones match your style of baking and should become pantry staples.

Replace all-purpose flour with ancient grains in your kitchen

As more bakers seek alternatives to refined white flour, ancient grains are reclaiming their place in kitchens as a flavorful and nutrient-rich alternative. Whether for health reasons, sustainability or the simple pleasure of exploring new flavors, these time-honored grains offer a fresh take on baking and cooking, making them a worthwhile addition to any pantry.

Jere Cassidy is the writer and recipe developer behind the blog One Hot Oven. A passion for all things food related led her to culinary school to expand her baking skills and now to share easy recipes for all home cooks and bakers of all skill levels. When not in the kitchen, Jere’ likes to travel far and wide to find delicious food.

Disclaimer: These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. The contents of this article, made available via Food Drink Life, are for informational purposes only and do not constitute medical advice. The content presented here is not intended to be a substitute for professional medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. Always seek the advice of a qualified healthcare provider with any questions you may have regarding a medical condition or dietary changes. Reliance on any information provided by this article is solely at your own risk.

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